Waitangi Day in Petra

It is almost 10.30pm in Amman and we are still in Waitangi Day being 11 hours behind NZ. We have been back at the hotel about an hour after a 14.5 hour trip. That includes the same bus we have had trouble with blowing the new radiator hose, thankfully only about 30 minutes from Amman. A relief bus picked us up within 20 minutes, which was very good because some on the bus are flying out in about an hours time.

Petra is all it is said to be and more. A city carved out of rock in a series of canyons 2,500 years ago by the Nabateans. I took 111 photos and this one is Helen's favourite. Starting at the town of Petra visitors centre you walk down the Siq which is a norrow canyon maybe 8-10 metres wide with 100m+ cliffs towering above you. It's a water course that descends 80m over 1.2km. Most of the way is concreted with sections of Roman Road. It opens out into a wider canyon and as you emerge the famous Treasury building carved into solid rock is in front of you. Petra is actually a huge site that takes three days to see everything. We chose one thing, to visit the old Nabatean Temple which became a Christian Church and is now just a monument. It is known as the Monastry. It is 2.5 hours from the bus stop including a 900 step 1 hour climb. The steps are cut into the rock as you wind your way up a mountain side. Today it was 30C which made it hard going, although believe it our not, about 20 minutes from Petra we were driving past the reamins of snow drifts beside the road and on the hill sides. As you take the 900th step feeling desponent you walk out onto a sandy plateau thinking what a rip off, until you look to your right. Then there it is, the Monastry. The picture is it with Helen standing in front. Behind me as I took this photo is a look out that was manned by soldiers in full battle dress with machine gun positions and all. Just a reminder of where we are and the security that is everywhere.

Some tips for visiting Petra. Learn the word "La". It means "no" in arabic and is very useful to ward of dozens of people who want to sell you something. You need to be fit to walk it. We walked it! Otherwise you can take a horse that is free with the ticket the 15 minute walk down from the visitors centre to the start of the Siq. Then you have to get past the guys with a horse drawn buggy with springs and rubber tyres that can take you down and up the Siq for 20JD ($40NZ). Where the buggy drops you off you will be swarmed by kids trying to sell you post cards for 1JD. Good time to practice la. Then you will be approached by the camel drivers who will offer you a ride the next 30 minutes or so for 5JD each way. We were tempted. They drop you off at the bottom of the stairs to the monastry and then there are the donkey guys. You can ride a donkey up and down the stairs for 15JD. Some of our group did all three rides and thought the donkey ride was as hard as walking, especially the trip down which looked very scary. And be warned the jacks and jennys work togther and when a jenny is on heat watch out for a run away jack knocking you off the jenney when - you know what. Happened to a dig member last year who almost ended up going over a cliff. One of our group was on a jack today who all of a sudden took off towards a jenny and jumped off before things got out of control. Always have cash in small denominations. One of the scams is for a ride operator to say that haven't got change. Three in our group found this out with the camel drivers. Every few hundred yards there is a stall with trinkets for sale womaned by formidable Bedouin ladies. A determined Helen started to haggle with one but came away thinking she probably didn't too well by the smile on the woman's face as we carried on our way. By the time we got back to the bus after a 2 hour route march in the heat we were knackered. Still are actually. While I am composing this Helen is in bed groaning with the pain, but otherwise she is a happy camper. If you ever get a chance to go to Petra - take it.

Another trip is planned for tomorrow but whether we go or not depends on the aches and pains. It is to the north of Jordan with apparently great views of Lake Gallilee, northern Israel, Golan Heights and Syria, but not too close to Syria.